Mafraq and Umm al-Jimal guide: the black oasis, stays

The Mafraq governorate stretches across the badia of northeast Jordan, and its main sight is the archaeological site of Umm al-Jimal, known as the "black oasis" because it's built entirely from black basalt stone. The site lies about 10 km from the city of Mafraq, and about 80 km (roughly an hour and a quarter) northeast of Amman. This is a destination for anyone who likes quiet ruins away from the crowded tourist routes, on an open basalt plain that defines the northeast of Jordan.

Umm al-Jimal (the black oasis)

Umm al-Jimal is a Roman and Byzantine town built from black volcanic basalt, and its houses, churches, and water cisterns still stand remarkably well. You wander whole lanes of black stone with no fences or complicated tickets, and you can see how its ancient residents relied on harvesting rainwater in the desert. The site is exposed, so carry a hat and water, and the best times are morning or before sunset.

The northern badia and around

Around Mafraq the northern badia spreads out in open basalt plains, a different environment from the sandy desert of the south. The area is close to Irbid and the farming north to the west, and to the Azraq oasis and its castles to the south, so you can link Umm al-Jimal with a tour of the eastern badia in one trip if you're exploring this side of the country.

Best time to visit, and getting there

Spring and autumn are best for the mild badia weather. Summer is very hot by day on the exposed plain, and winter is cold. You reach it from Amman in about an hour and a quarter on a paved road heading northeast, with Umm al-Jimal a few minutes from the city of Mafraq.

Where to stay: Mafraq and badia stays

Stays in this area are few and simple compared with the major tourist destinations, but they suit anyone who wants a quiet base for exploring the northern badia. Before you book, check how close the stay is to the road and to Umm al-Jimal, whether it fits your group, and that the photos are clear. Most important, make sure the photos are of the actual place, on YallaChalet we verify that before any listing goes live.

We gather what's available in the area in one place so you can compare easily. Browse the Mafraq area to see what's available and message the owner directly on WhatsApp, with no commission and no middleman. If you're exploring the eastern badia, read the neighbouring Azraq and Zarqa guide.